A Decolonial Guide to Hawai'i

Book Pages: 448 Illustrations: 101 color illustrations, 5 maps Published: November 2019

American Studies, General Interest > Travel, Native and Indigenous Studies

Many people first encounter Hawai‘i through the imagination—a postcard picture of hula girls, lu‘aus, and plenty of sun, surf, and sea. While Hawai‘i is indeed beautiful, Native Hawaiians struggle with the problems brought about by colonialism, military occupation, tourism, food insecurity, high costs of living, and climate change. In this brilliant reinvention of the travel guide, artists, activists, and scholars redirect readers from the fantasy of Hawai‘i as a tropical paradise and tourist destination toward a multilayered and holistic engagement with Hawai‘i's culture and complex history. The essays, stories, artworks, maps, and tour itineraries in Detours create decolonial narratives in ways that will forever change how readers think about and move throughout Hawai‘i.

Contributors. Hokulani K. Aikau, Malia Akutagawa, Adele Balderston, Kamanamaikalani Beamer, Ellen-Rae Cachola, Emily Cadiz, Iokepa Casumbal-Salazar, David A. Chang, Lianne Marie Leda Charlie, Greg Chun, Joy Lehuanani Enomoto, S. Joe Estores, Nicholas Kawelakai Farrant, Jessica Ka‘ui Fu, Candace Fujikane, Linda H. L. Furuto, Sonny Ganaden, Cheryl Geslani, Vernadette Vicuña Gonzalez, Noelani Goodyear-Ka‘opua, Tina Grandinetti, Craig Howes, Aurora Kagawa-Viviani, Noelle M. K. Y. Kahanu, Haley Kailiehu, Kyle Kajihiro, Halena Kapuni-Reynolds, Terrilee N. Kekoolani-Raymond, Kekuewa Kikiloi, William Kinney, Francesca Koethe, Karen K. Kosasa, N. Trisha Lagaso Goldberg, Kapulani Landgraf, Laura E. Lyons, David Uahikeaikalei‘ohu Maile, Brandy Nalani McDougall, Davianna Pomaika‘i McGregor, Laurel Mei-Singh, P. Kalawai‘a Moore, Summer Kaimalia Mullins-Ibrahim, Jordan Muratsuchi, Hanohano Naehu, Malia Nobrega-Olivera, Katrina-Ann R. Kapa‘anaokalaokeola Nakoa Oliveira, Jamaica Heolimelekalani Osorio, No‘eau Peralto, No‘u Revilla, Kalaniua Ritte, Maya L. Kawailanaokeawaiki Saffery, Dean Itsuji Saranillio, Noenoe K. Silva, Ty P. Kawika Tengan, Stephanie Nohelani Teves, Stan Tomita, Mehana Blaich Vaughan, Wendy Mapuana Waipa, Julie Warech


“This brilliant and beautiful collection—which features interviews, personal essays, collaborative pieces with community elders, family histories, and more—is a rich ethical project that offers so much for so many. Mahalo!” — J. Kehaulani Kauanui, author of Paradoxes of Hawaiian Sovereignty: Land, Sex, and the Colonial Politics of State Nationalism

“[Detours] seeks to flip travel writing's static script, telling tourists that they are not entitled to all things Hawaiian because the Hawai‘i of their imagination is obliterating the Hawai‘i of Kanaka Maoli. . . . [Aikau and Gonzalez are] hoping to reach those who intend to become better guests, even if they're in the minority.” — Bani Amor, Fodor’s Travel

"The stories, art and ideas collected in Detours are a guide to the contributors’ connections to Hawaii. As a collective, the stories demonstrate how readers can learn about Hawaii beyond the veneer of tourism, and approach the island-state in a way that honors and reduces harm to the local cultures and communities." — Crystal Paul, Seattle Times

"This important book challenges readers to think critically about the violence of colonialism that is expressed through tourism. . . . Detours is valuable not only to those studying Hawai?i, but more broadly to scholars of indigenous studies and anyone interested in the colonial legacies of tourism. Highly recommended. All levels." — L. Kessler, Choice

"If you know a particularly intuitive traveler, someone who wants to find the hidden histories of a place, the guidebook Detours: A Decolonial Guide to Hawai‘i . . . will give them perfect examples of ways to reapproach tourism and travel—in other words, to decolonize their experience."
  — Kit Dillon, Wirecutter

"By collecting the stories of Kanaka, this guide educates its readers with rich, wise primary sources. It effectively amplifies the voices of those most knowledgeable and does not shy away from harsh facts and truths that are often glossed over. . . . I highly recommend this guide to everyone who has or plans to have contact with Hawai’i. What you learn from reading should impact the way you approach your visit and bring to light new considerations to uphold a pono (just, fitting) experience." — Erica Cheung, International Examiner


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Price: $29.95

Open Access

Author/Editor Bios Back to Top

Vernadette Vicuña Gonzalez is Associate Professor of American Studies at the University of Hawai‘i at Manoa and author of Securing Paradise: Tourism and Militarism in Hawai‘i and the Philippines, also published by Duke University Press.

Hokulani K. Aikau is Associate Professor of Gender Studies and Ethnic Studies at the University of Utah and author of A Chosen People, a Promised Land: Mormonism and Race in Hawai‘i.

Table of Contents Back to Top
Acknowledgements  xiii
Introduction  1
Part 1. Wahi Pana / Storied Places  15
Only Twenty Ahupua'a Away  19
Ha-makua  26
He Mo'olelo no Pa'auilo: Restor(y)ing 'Aina in a Quiet, Old Plantation Town in Hamakua  28
Ponoiwi  37
Wehe a'ela ka 'Iao ma Haleakala  45
(Locals Will) Remove All Valuables from You Vehicle: The Kepaniwai Heritage Gardens and the Damming of the Waters  50
Finding Direction: Google Mapping the Sacred, Mo'olelo Mapping Wahi Pana in Five Poems  58
Princess Ka'iulani Haunts the Empire of Waikiki  67
Sources of Sustainment: Fort Kamehameha and 'Ahua Point  77
Fantasy Island: From Pineapple Plantation to Tourist Plantation on Lana'i  86
Anini  94
Kahale'ala, Halele'a: Fragrant Joyful Home, a Visit to Anini, Kaua'i  96
Na Pana Kaulana o Keaukaha: The Stories Places of Keaukaha  107
Part II. Hana Lima / Decolonial Projects and Representation  119
Ke Kilohana  123
Aloha is Deoccupied Love  125
Sovereign Spaces: Creating Decolonial Zones through Hula and Mele  132
Settler Colonial Postcards  147
An Island Negotiating a Pathway for Responsible Tourism  153
Ka Hale Ho'ike'ike a Pihopa: A Bishop Museum Love Story  164
Reclaiming the 'Ili of Haukulu and 'Aihulama  173
Keauhou Resort: Rethinking Highest and Best Use  182
'A'ole is Our Refusal  193
"Where are Your Sacred Temples?" Notes on the Struggle for Mauna a Wakea  200
Kuluku Hale in Hana, East Maui: Reviving Traditional Hawaiian House and Heaiu Building  211
Pu'olo Pa'akai: A Bundle of Salt from Pu'olo, Hanapepe, Kaua'i  220
"Welcome to the Future:" Restoring Keawanui Fishpond  230
Part III. Huaka'i / Tours for Transformation  245
The Hawai'i DeTour Project: Demilitarizing Sites and Sights on O'ahu  249
Kanaloa Kaho'olawe: He Wahi Akua / A Sacred Place  261
Fences and Fishing Nets: Conflicting Visions of Stewardship for Ka'ena and Makua  271
Beneath the Touristic Sheen of Waikiki  283
Sakada  293
A Downtown Honolulu and Capital District Decolonial Tour  300
Unearthing 'Auwai and Urban Histories in Kaka'ako  315
Displaced Kaka'ako  326
What's under the Pavement in my Neighborhood, Puowaina  238
Mapping Wonder in Lualualei on theHuaka'i Kako'o no Wai'anae Environmental Justice Bus Tour  340
Part IV. Hawai'i beyond the Big Eight / New mappings  351
Where is Hawai'i? Hawaiian Diaspora and Kuleana 355
We Never Voyage Alone  362
Law of Canoe: Reckoning Colonialism and Criminal Justice in the Pacific  373
Reconnecting with Ancestroial Islands: A Guide to Papahanaumokuakea (the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands)  380
Conclusion: 'A'ole I Pau (Not Yet Finished)  391
Glossary of Terms  393
Select References 405
Contributors  409
Index  417
Sales/Territorial Rights: World

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Additional InformationBack to Top
Paper ISBN: 978-1-4780-0649-7 / Cloth ISBN: 978-1-4780-0583-4