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Precarious Accumulation

Fast Fashion Bosses in Transnational Guangzhou

Book

Pages: 280

Illustrations: 10 illustrations

Published: February 2026

Author: Nellie Chu

In Precarious Accumulation, Nellie Chu tells the story of the migrant entrepreneurs at the heart of Guangzhou’s fast fashion industry—one of the world’s most dynamic hubs of transnational commodity production. Chu shows how rural Chinese migrants, West African traders, and South Korean jobbers navigate the high-speed, low-margin world of just-in-time garment production that fuels the constant accumulation of wealth via global supply chains. Drawing on fieldwork in Guangzhou’s urban villages and household workshops, Chu outlines how these entrepreneurs’ dreams of economic freedom clash with the reality of precarity and the exclusions of emigre status. Migrant bosses operate within a highly competitive, informal economy where they are both agents and target of exploitation, as they must evade rent collectors, endure racialized policing, and mitigate extortion from security officers and competitors. Chu crucially demonstrates how their efforts generate novel forms of migratory labor, commodity production, and cross-cultural exchange in postsocialist China.

Praise

Precarious Accumulation is a rich ethnography and analytically sharp book that outlines the aspirational dimensions of entrepreneurial efforts at accumulation and the ways these aspirations chafe against everyday structural constraints. Nellie Chu’s examination of the struggles of different migrant entrepreneurs who gather at a central hub of the ‘fast fashion’ global supply chain is intimate and eye-opening.” - Julie Y. Chu, author of Cosmologies of Credit: Transnational Mobility and the Politics of Destination in China

“Through her ethnography of small-scale subcontractors in Guangzhou, Chu shows how the manufacturing of fast fashion in China after the postsocialist transformation has produced a distinct form of precarity. Her analysis of entrepreneurs’ attempts to move from the precariousness of wage labor to the precarious accumulation of capital makes an important contribution to scholarship on precarity, the anthropology of supply-chain capitalism, and postsocialist China.” - Sylvia J. Yanagisako, coauthor of Fabricating Transnational Capitalism: A Collaborative Ethnography of Italian-Chinese Global Fashion

"This book is essential reading for sociologists, anthropologists and geographers of globalization, labor, migration, and supply chain capitalism. It offers future researchers a roadmap for doing ethnography of supply chain from below." - Ian Liujia Tian, Critical Sociology

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Author/Editor Bios

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Nellie Chu is Assistant Professor of Cultural Anthropology at Duke Kunshan University.

Table Of Contents

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Acknowledgments  ix
Introduction: Migrant Bosshood and the Making of Global Fast Fashion  1
1. Made in China, Just in Time  32
2. Stalled Mobility  60
3. Surveillance and Regulation in the Shenfen (Identification) Economy  99
4. Speculative Real Estate and Flexible Appropriation  130
5. Transnational Migrant Bosshood  162
Conclusion. The Dilemmas of Migrant Bosshood and Supply Chain Capitalism in the Era of COVID-19  196
Notes  215
References  233
Index  253

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Additional Information

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Paper ISBN: 978-1-4780-3309-7 / Hardcover ISBN: 978-1-4780-2964-9 / eISBN: 978-1-4780-6183-0 / DOI: https://doi.org/10.1215/9781478061830

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